This is the winner of the outstanding General Sports Writing Award, British Sports Book Awards. It is the winner of the Boardman Tasker Prize. It is the winner of the Mountain & Wilderness Prize, Banff Festival. It is the winner of the Tony Lothian Award, Biographers' Club. For the first time, drawing upon previously unseen diaries and letters, rare archive material and interviews, Everest - The First Ascent tells the remarkable story of Griffith Pugh, the forgotten team member whose scientific breakthroughs ensured the world's highest mountain could be climbed. A doctor and physiologist, Griffith Pugh revolutionised almost every aspect of British high-altitude mountaineering, transforming the climbers' attitude to oxygen, the clothes they wore, their equipment, fluid intake and ac